This is the setup you will see in indoor climbing gyms. In top rope belaying, the climbing rope runs from the belayer’s belay device to the anchor point at the top of the climb and back down to the climber’s harness. This article will cover top rope belaying. The compatible rope sizes will be printed on the frame as well. Some ATCs can only be used with ropes of a certain range of diameters.
It is no different from belaying with a regular ATC. You can use the ATC on the opposite direction, with the brake strand on the regular side. In some cases, if you are using a thicker rope, you may find the friction too high on the high friction side.
When you are belaying a climber that is heavier than you.When you are belaying with thinner ropes which has lower friction.The high friction side is useful in several situations: You will typically see an icon of a person climbing. The regular side will be the rope going to the climber. On the high friction side, you will typically see an icon of a hand holding onto a strand of rope. The recommended way to use the ATC Guide is to have the brake strand on the high friction side. The side with the grooves is the high friction side while the smooth side is the regular side.
HARNESS COMBO WITH ATC GUIDE HOW TO
The information shows the rope direction and diameter.įor the regular ATC, the design is symmetrical and it doesn’t matter how you slot the ropes into the belay device.įor ATCs that have a regular side and a high friction side, the icons on the frame will show how to slot the rope in. You can see this only on the ATC Guide (or equivalent).įor some ATCs, you will see some information printed on their frames. Release hole: This is an opening to insert a carabiner for lowering a climber. You can see this only on the ATC Guide (or equivalent). Its main purpose is to keep the belay device in place during a belay.Īttachment point: This is an opening for attaching the belay device to the anchor point for a direct belay. When belaying a single rope, you can use any one of the rope slots.Ĭable: This is a loop of wire connected to the frame. Most ATCs have 2 rope slots which allow them to belay half or twin ropes. Rope slots: These are the openings in the belay device to pass the ropes through. Here is a good overview of the different belay devices.įrame: This is the main body of the belay device. There are many other belay devices apart from those mentioned here.
Unlike the other ATC variety which have 2 rope slots, the ATC Sport only has 1 rope slot. The Black Diamond ATC Sport is another type of tubular aperture belay device. In this configuration, the ATC is also able to apply a self-braking force on the rope.Īnother common aperture-style self-braking belay device is Petzl’s Reverso. This configuration is referred to as using the “Guide Mode” of the ATC. This is secured directly onto an anchor point for doing a direct belay. The ATC Guide has an additional attachment point. Like the ATC XP, it also has grooves to increase friction for a belay. While the ATC and ATC XP are tubular aperture belay devices, the ATC Guide is an aperture-style self-braking belay device. When the brake strand is used on the side with the grooves, it provides more friction for braking the rope.īlack Diamond has another belay device known as the ATC Guide. Over the years, the design of the ATC has evolved and there are now different variations in the market.īelay devices like the Black Diamond ATC XP have grooves added to one side. Nowadays, belay devices with this specific design are all referred to as ATC. It has since become so popular and its design has been replicated by other brands. The ATC was initially a specific belay device developed by Black Diamond. It is a type of tubular aperture belay device. Part 2: How To Pass A Belay Certification TestĪTC stands for Air Traffic Controller. This is Part 1 of 5 of the Learn To Belay Mini-series : To avoid confusion, let’s look at each one of them. There are currently different variations of the ATC in the market. Lower the climber with the ATC belay device.This article covers how to belay with an ATC.īelaying with an ATC involves knowing how to: There are different types of belay devices and the belay technique may be slightly different for each one. Belaying is a critical skill that every climber has to learn early on.
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